Theory and Analysis of Fabrics

Teaching staff

Elena Martín

Elena Martín

Directora artística y diseñadora fundadora de la marca Martin Lamothe.

Directora artística y diseñadora fundadora de la marca Martin Lamothe. Es graduada de Moda en el Máster de Central Saint Martins College de Londres, tras estudiar en 2 años la carrera de moda en su ciudad natal, Barcelona y ser ganadora del Pitti Filati en Florencia. Trabajó en Reino Unido como asistente para Vivienne Westwood y Alexander McQueen Actualmente además de dirigir su marca, trabaja como coolhunter freelance y market research para diferentes empresas en España y en Estados Unidos. Es especialista en Alto prêt-à-porter y Denim.

Fact sheet

Formal qualifications: Bachelor's Degree in Design

Credits: 6

Course: Third

Typology: Elective Fashion Design

Code subject: GDVM23


Establish the basic foundations of knowledge of the areas of the textile industry that produce woven or machine-knit fabrics and provide the student with the necessary skills and knowledge to work within said industry. Students will acquire the necessary skills to allow them to choose, plan, purchase and use the most appropriate fabrics for each project, and they will also learn about the different types of machines with which they can adjust their designs.



Module 1. Introduction to the course.

  • Contents and applications of the course to the work process of a fashion designer.
  • Systems for positioning within the textile industry.
  • Examples of creativity related to research of the textile industry.
  • Timing and phases of the processes for selection and application.

Module 2. The fabric, classification by origin.

  • Type of fabric by origin / extraction, its applications, possibilities and uses.
  • Natural origin and artificial origin.

Module 3. The fabric, classification for textures and manufacturing.

  • Types of textures and their features. The most commonly represented fabrics.

Module 4. Printing and dyeing methods.

  • Classification of printing methods by technique.
  • Processes of work of these systems – the most commonly used by designers of textiles.
  • The rapport: mirror, continuous, all-over, positional.
  • Reproduction and dyeing systems: particular, manual, traditional.

Module 5. Finishes.

  • Interwoven industrial finishes.
  • Superficial finishes and temporary effects.
  • Industrial finishes.

Module 6. Specialisations: Denim, PPT and leather.

  • Introduction to the specialisations of PPT and leather: origin, features, manufacturing and their main uses.

Module 7. Exposure to the knit industry in Europe.

  • Spinning, yarn types and conditioning of the yarn for production processes.
  • Machinery and machine types: straight knitting, cotton and tubular knitting.
  • Features: Advantages and disadvantages. Essential parts of a flat knitting machine: Philetas, guide wires, slide needles, sets, board, inverter, knitting cams, etc.
  • Types of knit: links, jacquard, intarsia, full knit, dither, interlock, etc.
  • Technical language of knitwear labels.
  • Type of fabric: cut, decreases, integral.
  • Parts of a garment, sleeves, armscyes, neck, increases, decreases, assembly and clothing seams...
  • Difference between accessories and trimmings.

Module 8. Development of fabric: initial tests (spinning-weaving machine settings).

  • Concepts of density and gauge, desired measurements (2+2 does not equal 4).
  • Development of a pattern type.
  • Different types of knits.

Module 9. Dressmaking. Machinery: overlocker, remallosa, joining machine.

  • System and process for cut fabric (process and machinery).
  • System and process for decreased fabric (process and machinery).
  • System and process for the built-in fabric (process and machinery).
  • Features: Advantages and disadvantages of each system.
  • Finishes and final ironing. Features of the final finishes and ironing systems.

Module 10. Development and implementation of a knitwear collection.

  • Knowledge of the market the collection targets (men, women, older, younger, etc.).
  • First sketches and their development to manufacturing (specification sheets, spinning, etc.).
  • Defining the type of spinning.
  • Define the type of manufacturing (cut, decreased or built-in) and desired gauge.
  • Study of accessories, channels, seams, necklines, etc.
  • Preparation process prior to tailoring (washing, vaporing, etc.).
  • Study of the tailoring process.
  • Types of finishes and iron.



  • Knows the different types of fabrics and technical constraints of unique or serial printing.
  • Knows the weight features of the fabric when considering the effect of volume.
  • Chooses the most fitting fabrics for a printing project.
  • Knows what the best type of finish for each piece is.
  • Takes environmental impacts into consideration when choosing fabrics.
  • Knows the features of leather and its manufacturing process.
  • Demonstrate their mastery of advanced knowledge and a profound understanding of the theoretical and practical aspects specific to fashion design.
  • Applies their knowledge, understanding and problem solving abilities in the field of professional fashion design in creative and innovative ways.



  • SS4. Apply appropriate methodologies and varied research according to the subject matter, both for knowledge management and for formal experimentation and production that meets academic and professional standards.



  • Observation and participation
  • Monitoring of the work performed
  • Specific tests-tests
  • Carrying out works or projects